It's a purifying day in the neighborhood / Bliss of Shvitz / Copyright The Los Angeles Times, Thursday April 14, 2005

Bliss of the Shvitz / Copyright The Los Angeles Times, April 14th, 2005 / By Valli Herman, Times Staff Writer

After my first-timer's tour of the City Spa, I am ready to pack up and drive back to work, thinking of the many reasons why I'm not going to be beaten with branches.

I've endured and observed lots of unusual rituals in the name of beauty and health. But at this Pico Boulevard institution, the pursuit takes on a manly swagger. I consider myself too much a sissy to withstand this Russian-style shvitz, the high-heat steam bath and the plaitza, a brief exfoliation treatment given in the steam room with a large, wet and blazing-hot oak-branch brush.

Heading toward the exit, I pass two friendly, skinny young guys paying $25 for spa admission. (Update 2012 $40) I find my courage, my credit card and my way to the women's locker room.

Women are fairly new to the City Spa, which admits only men 4 days a week. On coed days, bathing suits are required and business for the plaitza is slow, so the spa's Mr. Flagellator stays home (but women can ask a buddy for the treatment). Evidently, the spectacle of a man's naked body being flogged is best reserved only for other men.

It's just as well. It's humiliation enough sweating marbles with men in the Russian Rock room, a 180-degree cave featuring two oversized wall ovens filled with glowing cobblestones. For more heat, one of the two guys sprinkles warm water on the hot rocks, sending steam blasts to the upper benches. Some hearty patrons take a full 10 minutes of baking while wearing a dry, heat-absorbing bell-shaped wool hat, cheerfully embroidered with oak leaves.

As gentlemen, my sauna companions make sure I'm OK with the heat. And I am. It's the cold that pushes the extremes. Just steps beyond the Russian rock room is an aptly named "cold plunge," a small, deep pool of barely melted iceberg. I don't let the warning sign about sudden temperature changes and heart attacks scare me. The plunge is so incredibly cold -- and thrilling after the intense heat -- I have to experience it three times. Even Mark Twain recognized the pleasure in pain when he described his first Russian steam as "exquisite torture."

For more cooling, there's a sizable unheated indoor pool. Extra heat comes from a eucalyptus steam room, a whirlpool illuminated by a skylight and sunshine on the rooftop deck. Though many come here for the Russian sauna, the sprawling place also offers rooms for sleeping, massage, watching TV and playing cards, in addition to a VIP locker room and a cafe featuring Middle Eastern cuisine.

It's easy to understand the appeal of the shvitz. It was a popular ritual among Russian and immigrant Jews, who visited the public bathhouse in preparation for the Sabbath and to glory in indoor plumbing. The City Spa, which opened in 1955 as the Pico-Burnside Baths, is one of a few Russian-style spas in the country (the others are in New York, Chicago, Detroit and Miami). It also offers a glimpse of L.A.'s Jewish history on that stretch of Pico.

In 1989,Simon Cambiz, bought the bathhouse with his brothers and extensively remodeled it. Cambiz is an Iranian Jew of Russian heritage, remembers shvitzing all afternoon with his father as a kid. He's still a daily visitor. But now on Saturday nights, families from all walks of life and many regions of the world, bond through the power of sweat.

A Steamy Tradition / By Robert Eshman, Associate Editor- Copyright The Jewish Journal

A Steamy Tradition / Copyright The Jewish Journal

by Robert Eshman, Associated Editor

Community / For 45 years the City Spa has attracted an electric and peaceful a mix of people as Los Angeles can offer.

     This story begins as no other, with its author lying naked on a warm stone slab, being beaten with eucalyptus branches by a large Russian man named Lazar. "You like this?" he says. "You like it?" 

     At the City Spa on Pico Boulevard and Burnside Avenue, they call this a "plaitza." As Lazar's hot mop of fresh-cut eucalyptus leaves thwacks my body, long-clogged pores open to suck in the super-heated air. The temperature in the Russian-style rock room - reportedly the only one of its kind in the country, climbs up to 200 degrees. Aches and stresses melt like butter. Lazar Kumpan, who, in civilian dress, is CEO of a medical instruments company, gives me one last slap. After 15 minutes, I'm a new man.

     I've just discovered what Eastern European Jews have known for centuries, and what many Angelenos have known for decades: The Shvitz is life.

     Located on a stretch of Pico Boulevard that was settled, then abandoned, and is now being rediscovered by the Jewish community, City Spa, originally called Pico Burnside Baths, evokes the kind of loyalty and teary-eyed reminiscence usually bequeathed upon, say, the pastrami at Langer's or the eggs and onions at Arts.

     Cappy Capsuto, 82, has been going to the City Spa since it opened 45 years ago. That's when Jewish gangsters such as Mickey Cohen and Bugsey Siegel frequented the place. "A lot of guys go to the pool hall or to the bar" he says, dressed in the flouncy toga everyone wears when they're not naked. "We'd come here. You meet a bunch of guys from where you're at. You get a good steam."

     Long before City Spa, Jews from Eastern Europe brought thier love of the steam bath to America. Part refuge, part social club, part health resort, the baths were a place to schmooze, relax, have a glass of schnapps and a nibble of herring. City Spa is the last authentic shvitz in Los Angeles, say its long devoted patrons. Only the 10th Street Baths in Manhattan comes close to its atmosphere, though Capsuto would differ. "Nah," he corrects another old-timer, "that's like comparing chicken salad to chicken s---."

     For numerous Jewish families, the spa has endured as a rite of passage, a tradition. "My father used to take me here when I was a kid." Danny Brookman, 49, tells me. "Now I started taking my sons here."

     On this particular Thursday evening, Brookman and his father, Bob, 73, soak in the Jacuzzi while Brookman's sons, Jordan, 12, Miles, 9, and Max, 7, dare each other into the cold plunge. "My dad used to take me here when I was a kid" says Brookman, a Santa Monica lawyer. "and now I take my kids." Many of the men at City Spa tell the same story. They first came holding thier fathers hand, and they've kept coming back. 

     But its not just Fathers and sons. City Spa attracts an electric and peacful mix of people as Los Angeles can offer. On any given night, Jewish Defense League leader Irv Rubin will find himself soaking next to a black Muslim. John F. Kennedy Jr. may drop in. Jesse Jackson, former Los Angeles District Attorney Ira Reiner, Orthodox Jews, Russians, Israelis, the old-timers, children, actors, agents all come - the place is a United Nations of sweat.

     When little Max Brookman slips on his way out of the rock room, a familiar voice asks, "You OK?" When Max looks up, he sees a smiling John Travolta.

    You pay 30 dollars to enter (updated 2012 $40) - discounted annual memberships are also available - but nobody seems to rush in and out. Besides the rock room, there's a wet-steam room, thick with hot eucalyptus scented mist, the Jacuzzi; a cool swimming pool; a dry sauna.

     Upstairs in the two-story building is a refurbished weight room, a sun deck, massage rooms, a TV and game room. Downstairs, there's a restaurant, lockers and Bulls Room. Patrons wander back and forth between the rooms, stopping to trade jokes and stories. "Four hours goes by like nothing here" says Brookman.

     Or 40 years. Co-owner Simon Kamviz says that, sometimes, widows have come to the spa, asking for the key for thier dead husbands locker. "They'll say, My husband has been here every week for 40 years; what's he hiding in the locker?"

     Simon, along with his brothers, David, Soli and Cameron, bought City Spa 10 years ago from longtime owner Ellis Pasavoy. The place has fallen into disrepair along with its neighborhood. "Everything was crumbling," says Simon. "The old-timers called it a concentration camp."

     But the Iranian Jewish brothers fell in love with the spa. They remembered how, back in Tehran, thier mother would pack lunches and rose water and send them off to the spa with thier father. "I think being nude with your parents brings the closeness." says Kamvis.

     The brothers who own Plaza Carpets on Pico Boulevard and several other businesses, spent close to $2 million renovating and upgrading the spa. "We saw a piece of History just dying" says Kamvis. Now the brothers are tireless boosters of thier spa's wondrous health and social benefits. "We decided if we'll buy this place we'd live longer," says David. "People come here unhappy and walk out happy."

     Along with the physical improvements, the brothers Kamviz made other big changes. Women for one. Every Monday and Wednesday is coed, with bathing suits mandatory. Some customers resented the change. "This was always a place where you would come and meet the boys," says Lester Bice, a judge.

     But the brothers said that they had no choice. For one, thier mothers, sisters, wives and daughters wanted to experience the spa. But, also, time has been tough on membership. "A lot of our best customers were dead," says David. "We had to bring the younger crowd."

     To attract a new generation, the Brothers have added fresh squeezed juices    

to the restaurant menu, along with remarkable good food prepared by an Iranian Jewish chef. Simon himself makes the superior olives, pickles, herring and sourkraut. And, on coed nights, he puts candles on the tables "to make it more romantic."

     Indeed, business has picked up, and City Spa has been reviewed and praised in the Los Angeles Times, Harpers & Queens, Variety and even GQ Japan.

     And the longtime customers still keep coming back. "When you're not feeling well, you can come in here and take it easy" says Bice. "You'll feel better."

Copyright The Jewish Journal March-April 1997

My Favorite Weekend: Seth 'Shifty' Binzer / copyright Leslee Komaiko Los Angeles Times

Thursday, August 5, 2004
My Favorite Weekend: Seth 'Shifty' Binzer
copyright Leslee Komaiko Los Angeles Times

     Happy is as "Happy" does
     Los Angeles Native Seth Binzer, a.k.a. Shifty Shellshock and now simply "Shifty," and his crazy town bandmate Bret "Epic" Mazur topped the singles charts in 2001 with their sexy rock-rap ditty "Butterfly." Now Binzer is doing the solo thing. His new album, "Happy Love Sick," hit the stores last week. "I tried to remove the heavy rock element" he says. "This is more surfer hip-hop: hip-hop with reggae overtones, some dance music and R&B influences." Binzer lives in Sherman Oaks with his wife, Melissa, and 19-month-old son, Halo.
     Work before play
     Friday I would try to go to the gym. I go to Train West Hollywood on La Cienega. My friend Brody Kramer is my trainer. We practice boxing, then I do a lot of cardio and ab workouts.
     From there I'd go to Ita-Cho, on Beverly Boulevard across from El Coyote. It's some of the best Japanese food in L.A. They have a braised beef with Japanese mustard that's incredible, and they have these spicy little peppers in soy sauce I adore.
     Usually after that, I go to City Spa and Health Center. I meet up with all my buddies there. It reminds me of where the Sopranos would go. It's this old-school bathhouse with a Russian rock room, basically a dry sauna with two huge ovens that look like pizza ovens filled with rocks. The whole spa is based around a cold lap pool. It's super-freezing. And there are Jacuzzis and a steam room where where they take eucalyptus leaves and smack you with them.
     I'd go home for a while and play with my son, then fall asleep on the couch for an hour or two. Then after that I'd go out with my wife and some other friends, probably to Spider Club in Hollywood. It's in Avalon upstairs-it's more like the VIP club-and on Friday nights it's really fun.
     The son shines
     On Saturday I'll probably sleep in 'cause I can, wake up, hang out with my kid, maybe go swimming with him. I might take him the beach or go down to Gladstone's Malibu. We sit outside. And on a good day, there are dolphins going by, and he goes "Fish,fish." He likes throwing bread at the seagulls.
     Normally we like to do a big dinner. We'll go to Mastro's Steakhouse in Beverly Hills. It's my favorite steakhouse. They have the most incredible fillets on the bone and a really cool live band that plays old-school music like Sinatra. It's like old school Vegas.
     Freshness Counts
     On Sunday I wake up real early. I meet my friend Robert Vaughn. He was a pro surfer. Now he has a clothing company called FTW. He's teaching me to surf, 'cause I'm not that good but I love it. We'll go to Malibu State Beach, find some waves and hang out and get some coffee.
     I try to come back home not too late. On Sunday, they close off Ventura Place in Studio City for a farmers market. It's my favorite place to go with my son. We get all these fresh vegetables and fresh flowers for the house. Then they have pony rides. Watching him ride the horses is the coolest thing.
     I like to go to Katsu-Ya in Studio City once a week. It's my favorite restaurant in the world. They have this crispy rice with little jalapenos, and I love jalapenos. They have these tuna tartare towers that are really great, and amazing blue crab rolls.

DAY SPAS by Kevin Koffler / copyright The Hollywood Reporter - Weekender

The Hollywood Reporter / Weekender
Friday, March 16th, 1990
DAY SPAS by Kevin Koffler

     We planned on spending an hour or so checking out City Spa's facilities, but we ended up staying five hours. City Spa is a men's club on the former site of the Pico Burnside Baths (women are not admitted)<Update 2012 Women are admitted on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday>. The old place reportedly used to be a dump, but the new owners have poured mega-bucks into this place to clean it up and to give it an authentic "old boy" East Coast club feeling, filling the place with a lot of oak and vinyl. Besides the spa, the facility also has a gym, a game room, a TV room, an excellent restaurant and a room in which you can sleep.
     Spa Treatments: Unlike most spas, where the steam room exudes just a hint of eucalyptus, we were overwhelmed by the stuff at City Spa. It was incredibly healing. The Russian room is probably the spa's most unique though. Natural Rocks are placed on a heated steel plate, and water is sprayed on them. We sweated more in there than in any sauna we experienced for this article. In the Russian room, you can get a "plaitza," where you are sort of beaten with eucalyptus leaves---actually it's not as S&M as it sounds, and it left us feeling very relaxed (Mick Jagger and Kieth Richards reportedly swear by the plaitzas). Make sure you also ask for a soap scrub from Seymour. This guys a real character (he's been doing soap rubs for something like 50 years), and he'll leave your skin cleaner than it's been in years.
     Staff and Clientele: The staff are very good at what they do. The plaitzas and soap rubs are the best treatments we had here. The shiatsu was also very good, but not as good as Ms. Chun at the Beverly Hot Springs. The clientele is mostly 40+plus executives, but the new owners are currently trying to introduce the facility to younger patrons.
     Prices: Very reasonable. Daily entrance is $20 <Update 2012 $40>(which includes everything except plaitzas, soap rubs, massage and food from the adjacent restaurant). Plaitzas and soap rubs are $15 each<Update 2012, plaitzah $20 soap rub $30>. Massage ranges from $40-$45 an hour.<Update 2012, one hour massage $60> 
     What makes this Spa Special: It's an oasis for men who want to escape for an afternoon, pamper themselves in an unpretentious atmosphere and leave feeling a lot better than when they arrived, for not a lot of money. We highly recommend it. 5325 W. Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles, 323-933-5954.

copyright The Hollywood Reporter 1990

City Spa Information

Address:
5325 West Pico Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90019
telephone: (323) 933-5954


Russian Rock Room, Dry Sauna, Eucalyptus Steam Room, Swimming Pool, "Ice Cold" Plunge, Jacuzzi, Sun Deck, Work Out Gym, Cafe', Relaxation Room, Private Lockers, Parking and more! Old School Shvitz/Bunya/Traditional Russian-Roman Bathhouse...in Los Angeles! Established 1953.


Hours:
Monday...........................2 PM to 10 PM
Tuesday through Friday.....10 AM to 10 PM
Saturday.........................7 AM to 10 PM
Sunday...........................7 AM to 6 PM


Co-Ed (Men & Women) times: Monday       2 PM to 10 PM
                                         Wednesday 10 AM to 10 PM
                                         Saturday      2 PM to 10 PM


            Admission Price: $ 40
                      10 Visits: $ 275   
        Massage One Hour: $ 60 (Special, One Hour Massage + Entrance $70)
Soap Wash (Soap Scrub): $ 30 (Special, Soap Wash + Entrance $55)  
               Plaitza (Venik): $ 20